原标题：鉴赏｜来自意大利的金羊毛首饰，创造真羊毛般的触感

Giovanni Corvaja

Giovanni Corvaja is an Italian goldsmith artist, well-know worldwide. His exquisite pieces have been acquired by the most prestigious museums and collectors in Europe, America and Australia. For Giovanni Corvaja, the artistic, formal and technical research has become more than merely a job; it is a mission and philosophy of his life.His work aims to combine beauty, poetry, science and craftsmanship in objects where those elements fuse together into one emotion. He dedicated all his career to Gold, he seek to understand its most intimate proprieties. The work of a craftsman should start from the act of observation, then he or she can start being one of the actors in the transformation: the matter, the hands, the mind, the soul, the souls of other people…when all these elements play in harmony there is a moment of magic.

Giovanni Corvaja是一位享誉全球的意大利金匠艺术家，他的作品曾被欧洲、美国和澳大利亚最负盛名的博物馆和收藏家收藏。对他来说，艺术、形式和工艺研究不仅仅是一项工作，而是他的人生使命。他的作品旨在将美、诗、科学和工艺结合在一起表达一种情感。他把研究黄金及制作精品作为毕生的事业，并寻求最贴近其本性的表达方式。他认为一个工匠的工作应该从观察开始，观察周遭的世界例如物质、手、思想、灵魂、其他人的灵魂等等，将这些元素融入作品后，就会产生魔力时刻。

“I am not attracted by safe games”, Giovanni Corvaja says. It’s easy to find it from his works. He didn’t make lots of works,some jewelry needs years to finish.But his works are shocking.

Each piece is entirely made by hand by himself, he works alone with no aid of assistants or workers.

This, on the one hand limits the number of pieces that he can make, on the other hand it gives him an immense freedom of experimenting and also of expressing himself directly with Gold.Executing every detail of the object also gives him full control of the quality of it, this dedication becomes part of the dialogue between he and the piece and in a way between he and the client.The creative process starts always with an esthetic idea: a form.

Very often there are years of technical research in order to find the best way to express the form.He prefers the bench work and hand fabrication, no 3D printing and computer aided equipment simply because he thinks handwork expresses sensitivity more exact.Contrasts and opposites are all fascinating to him, we might find a piece that contains extremes while keeping simplicity in the form: made by elements of a fraction of a millimeter at the same time tens of kilometers long.

In some of his work he tries to incorporate the element of transparency and a play of light.

“我不喜欢安全游戏，”Giovanni Corvaja说。我们从他的诸多作品都不难发现这一点。他的作品数量不多，有些需要几年才能完成，但是他的每件作品都很震撼。他选择自己亲自制作饰品，没有助手和徒弟、工人。这样的模式一方面限制了作品的数量，另一方面也给了他极大的创作自由。产品的每一个细节都有严格的质量把控，这种奉献精神成为他和作品之间对话的一部分，在某种程度上也是他和客户之间的对话。他的创作总是从一种形式上的美学观念开始，并以多年的工艺研究为基础。所有的作品都使用传统金工工艺，并不使用3D打印或计算机辅助设备，因为他认为手工制作能更好地呈现贵金属的敏感度。对比对他来说非常具有吸引力，我们可能会在他的作品中发现这样的现象：造型简单但内在元素极端复杂，例如同一元素的长度累计可达数十公里。在部分饰品中，他尝试加入透明的元素例如珐琅，并考虑光线的影响。

His constant research led him, some 12 years ago, to an idea: the creation of the Golden Fleece. This idea evolved from two different influences.Firstly, in the early 90s, Giovanni developed a system that enabled him to reduce gold and platinum to the dimension of one fifth of a human hair.

This opened a whole new world of expressive possibilities in the field of jewellery to him. Precious metals turned into delicate fibres under his hands: soft, ethereal matter, very pleasant to the touch as pleasurable as caressing fur. Secondly, he tried to make the gold have a similar touch with fleece.

Moreover, the frequent encounters with the Golden Fleece in his studies on Alchemy provided the other impulse for his creativity.

He knew that the process of improvement and purification can be only be made through labour. The actual making of the gold fur presented many technical obstacles and challenges.

The philosophical attitude towards Craft has helped him to move on. Each piece requires thousands of hours of precise labour and hundreds of kilometers of gold wire. The artist regards the Craft as “a journey, not a destination”.

大约十二年前他有了一个创造金羊毛的想法。这个想法是由两种不同的影响演变而来的。首先，在90年代早期，他研发了一种新工艺，这种工艺可以将黄金或铂金制作成直径只有人类头发五分之一的金属丝，这简直为他制作首饰打开了新世界的大门。贵重金属变成了纤细的纤维：柔软、空灵，触摸这种材料的体验就像抚摸皮毛一样令人愉悦。此外，受到希腊神话的启示，他想尝试用黄金制作出羊毛的触感。在研究“金羊毛”这种工艺时遇到的问题也为他的创作提供了动力，他逐渐明白只有通过劳动才能不断改进工艺直至完美。金羊毛系列饰品的实际制作带来了许多挑战。对工艺的极致要求促使他精益求精，每件作品都需要数千小时的精密劳动和数百公里的金丝。他认为工艺是“一次旅行，而不是目的地”。

“The shapes I have chosen for my pieces represent eternal symbols”,he says.

“我所选择的作品形状象征着永恒”，他说。